It's Ghanarific: Sweaty bills and mysterious rice baggies

WOOT! I have arrived. Accra - the capital of Ghana - is a sprawling, lush, bustling city during the rainy season. I have spent the past two nights at a hostel at the University of Ghana, and the days exploring the campus and touring Accra. The weather here brings back memories of Jamaica during it's rainy season - hot hot, humid humid, hot - with occasional heavy showers (though it hasn't actually rained yet). We're talking over 100 degrees Fahrenheit each day and 80-90% humidity. But I actually don't mind (except for my secret money belt fanny pack which holds in some rather unpleasant heat and moisture in my groinal area, making me feel quite sorry for the poor Ghanaian who must take my warm, moist Cedi (Ghanaian money)).

I head up to Kumasi today on a bus with the other U of M students. Besides the four of us who will be conducting research regarding maternal obstetric complications in the hospital, we have been joined by another U of M group of students (undergrads) who are also studying maternal mortality on a four week program and who will be staying with host families. So it has been interesting touring Ghana with such a big group. And by interesting I mean uncomfortable. I have found - through my study abroad program in Jamaica and to a lesser extent in Korea - that it is always better to be a traveler or tourist by myself or with one other person. Groups of obvious tourist/travelers, especially in countries where there are few white people, are such an eye sore, and draw so much (often unwanted) attention, making me feel quite uncomfortable. I much prefer to be on my own, where I can interact with locals better.

However, despite my previous experience being on my own in other countries, I must always start out a newbie, getting a feel for the culture and learning how to go about simple tasks such as getting lunch. For instance, yesterday when we were dropped off on the main busy street to find ourselves lunch and look around, I was DETERMINED not to eat at Papaye, the "Burger King/ McDonald's"-esque fast food chain that all the other students made a beeline for. For I, having traveled around the world and being oh-so-knowledgeable, was going to order street food like the locals and the ex-pats who live here. So I found a popular street stall (always go for a popular one so you know that it at least sits well with the locals) and attempted to order the one dish I knew called Jolof rice (rice cooked in a tomato-based soup). Of course, they were out, and I ended up with a plastic baggy full of plain rice with a mysterious brown sauce. I had no idea if I was supposed to eat it with my hands or if there were utensils around, because all of the locals ordered and took their baggies with them. So I paid and walked away, pretending I knew exactly what I had just gotten and how I should properly consume it (turns out they eat it with their hand, which I'm glad I didn't given how filthy mine were).....and made a beeline for Papaye, for an expensive but delicious grilled fish and Jolof rice...WITH utensils, thank you very much.

And so it goes as I slowly get a feel for my new surroundings, adapting to the heat and constant sweat, and the new food and ways to consume it. West Africa is vibrant and alive, and I am excited to go to Kumasi where I will spend the remainder of my time (besides weekend excursions), exploring the largest open air market in West Africa, the food (I had Bunku last night- a large ball of play dough-like mashed cassava that you pinch off with your hand and dip in sauce- not so great) the countryside, the people, the language (Twi is the main spoken language after English in the Ashanti region where I'll be staying) and the culture.

Akwaaba - Welcome- to Ghana